Dan Karlsen, Talbott wine maker Guru
Savoring great wine is a profound joy in life to the devotee’s of the Knights of the Vine. Learning about the wine creates an understanding in the depths of the soul enhancing that joy. Wine, information, knowledge and discovery aka WiKED events held in the Monterey Bay Chapter kicked into gear at Talbott vineyards in April. Dan Karlsen, wine maker and comedian extraordinaire held court for two hours on a warm and windy Sunday.
In the quiet southern branch of River Road between Salinas and Gonzales, lies Sleepy Hollow, resting below the Santa Lucia mountains. Talbott Vineyards and the eccentric, acerbic and mildly urbane, gifted and irreverent winemaker Dan Karlsen, have made a good thing into a memorable event. Learning the art of wine making at the feet of the mighty, Dan’s mentors are a heady list of the who’s who in the elite wine business. Tattinger and Chalone to name only a few from a storied career spanning over thirty years.
He scoffs at leaf thinning, Davis wine school graduates and traditional corks. He doesn’t stop talking for two hours, treating the 30 Knights and Ladies as if we were equals in knowledge and expertise. He speaks fondly of the Chardonnay and Pinot that have been his favorites. His knowledge is solid and unbending, he can recite averages, years and the wins and losses.
We traipsed after the guru thru the immaculate cooperage with Phoenix barrels to the corking room where we were regaled with the story of how long it took to convince Robb Talbott, son of the founders of the Talbott winery, Audrey and Robert, to throw out the traditional cork. It took Dan three years of talking. Considering two hours with the man on a Sunday afternoon, that speaks to the tenacity of Robb Talbott!
The ultra light bottles were a topic of discussion as was the intricate Italian wine corking machine. Along the way we taster the Chardonnay named after beloved daughter, Kali Hart and Logan. From the Talbott kitchens came Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese with fig confit and a tine, yet tasty, Pate Choux with Crab. The cheese, created an hour north of San Francisco, is concocted by two ladies with a pedigree of cooking fit to match the Talbott wine maker! The smooth and buttery cheese is an elegant triple cream fit ot serve against the full body of his wines.
Chorizo potato wrapped with bacon and topped with creme fraishe and chives sidled up to the ripe notes of cranberry, plum and vanilla in the Kali Hart Pinot Noir. In truth, the tasty bites played a supporting role in the afternoon. It was all about the wine and the maker.
Dan Karlsen is riveting. An afternoon with him drives one to want more… more knowledge and more wine, Talbott of course!